Sunday, June 29, 2014

Bhaktapur, Nagarkot, Changu Narayan and the sunrise in the fog


The list of the sights to see and have seen in Kathmandu valley is still not finished! :) Two weeks ago I spent a whole weekend wandering around the valley and visited the historical Bhaktapur, the village of Nagarkot and the world heritage site, Changu Narayan as well.
This was also my first two day long trip that I took alone, without any of the other volunteers. This was a challenge again to get around in the chaos of Nepal all alone, which filled me with excitement and satisfaction as well, after completing the trip without getting lost or producing any bigger disaster. Also, it was really nice to get out of the city little and have some autonomous time that now thinking about it, I’m missing a little bit.
Anyway, finally on a Saturday morning (after getting home pretty late because of trying to watch the football world cup that is sometimes shown here at 1am...) I set off early to walk to one of Kathmandu’s biggest bus park at Ratnapark. Finding a bus to Bhaktapur finally wasn’t as easy as I expected, but after I was directed to the old bus park, a pretty helpful bus driver pointed out a nice red bus to me, saying that that would take me to Bhaktapur. So this is how after about another 45 minutes of bus drive, I finally got to my first destination. Bhaktapur is a beautiful Newari city, one of the three royal cities and former kingdoms in Kathmandu valley, besides Kathmandu itself and Patan. It is also one of the world heritage sites in Nepal. Well, getting there, first you have to pay an entrance fee, which is pretty high (1500 Rs ~ around 12 Euros) but it is absolutely worth it. The whole town looks like if you just stepped into another century, full of beautiful temples and nice wooden decorations. It’s not only its Durbar Square that is fascinating, but the whole town has a special atmosphere – with all the nice buildings and the mountains in the background as well. As I’m already getting used to it when I’m travelling alone, again I found my guides for the city: first in a small Buddhist temple a monk started explaining to me about their heritage while also putting a tikka on me (you know, the red spot on the forehead which means blessing), and later another guy took me around Durbar Square and offered to accompany me to my next destination in Nagarkot to help me find the way and a cheap accommodation. Well, I didn’t take this offer, but it was still nice to listen to his explanation about Bhakatapur.
After this I looked for another bus to get me to Nagarkot. Well, this bus ride was an adventure again. Since the bus was already kinda full when I got there, they told me to sit in the front, almost by the bus driver. I don’t know if it was because of this, because I had a full view of the road or the trip would have been crazy anyway, but finally it was so far my scariest bus ride. Imagine an all the time bending road that looks like to have been designed for one vehicle, turning continuously left and right in the forest, while  other vehicles are coming from the other direction all the time, too, making the bus slow down, stop, or just stay on the sides. The distance between Bhaktapur and Nagarkot is not long, but because of these road conditions it took about one hour – which actually was still shorten than what I expected.
Getting to Nagarkot there came the next adventure: how to find a cheap accommodation. Since on the websites I could only find terribly expensive options – at least in Nepalese measures – and since I didn’t plan to spend the weekend in a fancy hotel anyway, I didn’t book any accommodation in advance. When I got off the bus, I got ‘attacked’ by a man from a hostel right away, who insisted on me looking at his rooms. Although he was offering better prices than what I have found before, I wanted to go for the cheapest option so I left him – even despite of the fact that it just started raining pretty hard and looking for a cheap room while totally soaked didn’t seem to be the best position for bargaining. Anyway, again this was the moment when I kinda found my local guides: some guys who were just chatting by a small cafe saw me walking up and then and started suggesting me the cheapest hostels. Although these turned out to be already full, soon I found myself picked up by one of them on a motorbike, riding to one of his friends, who was supposed to have a just newly built small guesthouse. Getting there I found a really local-looking place with a small room and a tiny Nepali style bathroom included – very-very simple place, but cheap and perfect for spending there just one night (Him Chuli Guesthouse). Well, after having a tea here together with the owners and later with ‘my guide’ as well, at his place, and waiting for the rain to stop, finally I took my first walks around the village.
Nagarkot itself seemed pretty much like a double-sided place to me: on one side it’s full of very fancy hotels and lots of foreigners, while on the other side it seems like a very simple, typical Nepalese village as well, where villagers are living their daily life – carrying grass, selling vegetables, going for water, getting their children ready for school... – just right by all the foreigners. It seems like an originally pretty poor village to me where they were clever enough to realize the beautiful location of the village and starting building a tourism business based on this creating this interesting, true faced image of the village.
After watching the sunset on the hillside in the company of a group from India, and – just to refresh the memories of the trekking – going to bed at 8 (!!!) o’clock, I woke up pretty early next morning and started my about 6 km long walk to the view tower from which I was supposed to see a beautiful sunrise. Although I saw some pretty nice views on the way, facing the hills all around, and low clouds among them, by the time I got to the view tower, I wasn’t so lucky to see anything: we were literally covered in fog.
After the view tower, the plan for this way a few hours hike (16 km – about 3-4 hours) to the world heritage temple, Changu Narayan. The first part of the road, to Telkot village lead through all kinds of small villages, with people sitting by their houses, goats wondering all around and people carrying for example big piles of dray grass. Although according to all the reviews, I read before, this part of the road was said to be less fascinating, I enjoyed this part the most – saying ‘Namaste’ to all the people, making contacts and asking for the right direction... In contrast with this, the next part of the road lead through a beautiful, thick forest, where although the way was pretty obvious, so there wasn’t a great danger of getting lost, but still, you could walk for more than an hour without even meeting one single person... It took me about 3 hours to finally get to the village of Changu Narayan, which is actually famous for its ancient temple that was still built in the 4th century. There were long stairs leading up to the temple, surrounded with colourful shops and also for example thanka (traditional Tibetan) painting schools. In the temple I again felt like a kinda star: I met a whole school who were just on a field trip and had to answer all different kinds of questions about the temple. Well, some of the students used the excuse of asking for answers to come up to me, which finally resulted having all the class and the teacher as well surrounding me, asking about me and taking pictures together with me as well! I even got the contact number of the school and an invitation to visit them somewhen! :)

Since after the visit in Changu Narayan, it was still early afternoon, I finally decided to instead of taking a bus back to Bhaktapur, follow the about another 6 km long highway back to Bhaktapur on feet, from where (after some tasty samosa as a snack for lunch) I took my bus back to Kathmandu. On the bus I had time for a rough calculation and realized that together with my walk home within Kathmandu, I took more than 40 km on feet just in one day which made it a bit more understandable, why my feet were in a bit shaky condition.


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